Having trouble viewing this video? Please visit our Video FAQ page
There’s quite an array of spray paints that can be used for model railroading applications. In this video, Cody Grivno of Model Railroader magazine demonstrates tips and techniques for working safely and reliably with good ol’ rattle cans to get the same pleasing results you’d expect from airbrushing.
Cody, you answered my most important question about using spray cans: do you shake the can right-side up or upside down?
Sorry if I am late! Try http://www.art-paints.com/Paints/Enamel/Floquil/Zinc-Chromate-Primer/Zinc-Chromate-Primer.html
Good video, just a observation from an old furniture builder,restorer. I recommend changing your righthand paint can movement from the circular pattern to a more parallel pattern to the model to be painted. It will improve uniformity of paint distribution on the model.
Does anyone know of a commercial spray paint that closely matches the old Floquil ‘Zinc Chromate Primer’ color? Thanks!
Im a little surprised that you didnt include the time honored step of first washing the model in a warm light soapy solution of water then rinse well to remove the last of the last residue of mold release as well as any accumulated oils from the hand….and then letting it completely air dry before the first coat. Thats pretty standard before applying paint in any form.
Great video, Cody! Nice to know that even the experts use good ol' spray cans (just like us laymen)! Keep up the good work!
Just watched this. I'm glad I'm not the only guy who's been using spray paint on models (as a kid I did all my airplane models in krylon grays). Obviously if you're looking for a specific railroad color or you need fine detail, an airbrush and Polly Scale (*weeps*) or other specialized paint is the way to go. But for coating large surfaces where an exact color match isn't necessary (say, structures or scenery) spray cans are much more economical. For the same $5 it would cost to buy a 1 oz. bottle of acrylic, I can get an entire spray can.
One question for Cody… why did you use a separate primer? Rust-oleum 2X is paint + primer in one. I would be reluctant to use extra coats if I can avoid it, especially since spray paint is thicker than railroad colors and overapplication can obsure details like brick lines or rivets. I've only just used the topcoat (although red primer does a great basecoat for brick-colored structures — a little aged concrete wash softens it nicely and makes the mortar joints look sharp).
you need to be careful if you spray paint your models. remember acrylic eats plastic so go with water based or solvent.
You never mentioned that a hardware spray can has a thicker coat of paint. After four coats on that hopper, some of the details will be covered up by the thick paint. That was the reason that Floquiil designed there paints. A thin coat of paint on our models. Some models don't use a primer to keep the coat of paint as thin as possible.
Cody, nice tool for holding a hopper car. Do you use the same tool for a box car or reefer? It seems to me that you would need something different.
Can you use spray paint on track?
Spray cans are great for quick set-up and minimal cleaning. I prime most things black and work up to lighter colors. Top coats should be light to allow some of the black to show through. The result is subtle weathering. Sometimes that is all the weathering a model needs.
I've used Rust-Oleum red primer for several years on the under carriage on HO rolling stock even on plastics with no problem.
But recently I tried the Rust-Oleum for plastic on some foam board and found that it loosens the bond of the paper from the foam. Tried it on a couple pieces and it loosen the paper on all the pieces I sprayed.
Good episode. I was not aware of heating the cans but will do so in the future. I am working on some buildings right now so this will come in handy.
Great episode Cody! Did not know the warm water trick as I had just primed 5 covered hoppers this morning. Noticed the hardware store is carrying more RR colors including a nice, soft pink for some Klemme Coop and Ralston-Jefferson cars I'm about to do… no more mixing to get an acceptable color. Good tips about the gloves as I too did not know about absorption into the skin. Keep up the good work!
Steve Otte: I thought "Hook" was the app employed by MRVP for video delivery. A long while back I was prompted to install Hook….and the videos have worked flawlessly ever since.
Well presented. Simple tricks like warming up the spray cans before applying the paint and just the fact to look at your local hardware store for the spray paint are all good to know.
Keep up the good work.
I have never used a primer under the top coat with plastic compatible paint. Not necessary & obscures details. OK to use on wood or metal.
Very good.
I had a friend in one of my other hobbies (model cars) teach the trick of heating the spray can. Works like a charm! I mostly use hardware store spray paint to paint my structure kits.
good tips Cody…. but how can I contact you to ask a question that's not about this? Thanks for your response
Cody I have used 2x paint
3 or 4 times and the problem I have is it take about 4 days to dry what is the problem.
Kenneth Baker from North Carolina: We don't use any service with that name to serve our videos or ads. If you're being rerouted, your computer may have a virus or malware hijacking your browser.
Cody: Job well done with ALL of your explanations etc. I know you also placed the blue spray in warm water as you did the grey prior to using. Saying so would help even though ALL was well done in my eyes.
Video doesn't work; sends me to something called "hook tv."