Analysis: ‘Evolving’ menu on tap for all Amtrak eastern overnighters NEWSWIRE

Analysis: ‘Evolving’ menu on tap for all Amtrak eastern overnighters NEWSWIRE

By Bob Johnston | September 17, 2019

| Last updated on November 3, 2020


'Cardinal' gets a Viewliner diner; 'Silver Star' dining car planned

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New dining options with trays on display in the dining car ‘Tallahassee,’ boxed meal examples are in the background.
Bob Johnston
WASHINGTON – When the New York-Miami Silver Meteor and New York-New Orleans Crescent become the last single-level long-distance trains to offer cooked onboard dining car meals to both sleeping car and coach passengers on Sept. 30, the pre-packaged replacements dispensed in the trains’ Viewliner II diners the next day won’t be the same “contemporary” fare now being served on the New York/Boston-Chicago Lake Shore Limited and Washington-Chicago Capitol Limited.

Other trains affected by the Oct. 1 changeover are the City of New Orleans and Cardinal, which today offer sit-down meals to both coach and sleeper passengers in a separate dining area, but the limited menu is pre-prepared and heated on board.

The service model is similar to the one utilized on the Capitol and Lake Shore: sleeping car travelers’ meals and one alcoholic beverage are included in the ticket price, while coach passenger access and dining options are limited to what’s available in each train’s cafe car.

But at a presentation and tasting for the media on Washington Union Station’s Track 30 aboard Viewliner II diner Tallahassee last Friday, Vice President, Product Development and Customer Experience Peter Wilander and Executive Chef David Gottlieb outlined how they believe the new menu would improve mealtime for all six trains.

For presentation the balsawood box and green bags are out, replaced by a tray holding the main dish and a salad. “The box itself had an unanticipated consequence of service degradation,” admits Wilander, who displayed examples of the old and new packaging and food items next to each other. As for the trays, “We’re starting with an off-the-shelf design that will allow us to progress to the next iteration (creating) our own molds to do something different,” he says. Unlike the boxes and their contents which generated mountains of trash despite being touted as a “sustainable choice,” the new trays are washable and reusable.

Unlike their predecessors, the main dishes are prepared in new vendor New Horizon Foods Inc. kitchens and flash frozen, which enables them to be heated in a convection oven. Gottlieb tells Trains News Wire, “There was a lot of back and forth in a competition with three or four vendors, and we tested everything in our test kitchens” at Amtrak’s Consolidated National Operation Center in Wilmington, Del.

Similar to the choices rolled out on the Capitol and Lake Shore, the new menu includes braised beef in a red wine sauce, chicken fettuccine, and a vegan Asian noodle bowl. Added are a Creole shrimp and Andouille sausage casserole and a pasta and meatballs “kids meal.” There are no cold options but all hot dishes come with a side salad and a dessert brownie.

A big plus is the fact that the Cardinal finally gets a Viewliner II diner, even if only passengers lucky enough to book the train’s single sleeping car are able to use it. One Viewliner sleeper remains out of service from the Cayce, S.C., Silver Star accident, according to Roger Harris, Amtrak’s EVP, Chief Marketing and Revenue Officer, and this has precluded operating a second sleeper in each of the Cardinal’s two consists.

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Left to right, Asian noodle bowl, chicken fettuccine, and kids’ meatball and pasta meal.
Bob Johnston
Harris tells Trains News Wire, “Implementing the new food service gets us to the point where we can afford to put (a dining car) back on the Silver Star. It’s in the plan for the near future and we’re working through logistics on how to get that done.” When it happens, Harris says, both New York-Miami trains would revert to a similar fare structure, “so we have the opportunity to have a (wider range) of fares from low to high according to demand, and we’re not going to have this orphan train (without a separate car for sleeping car meals).”

The food is obviously designed to mix together in one bowl, precluding any serving of individually-cooked steak, chicken, or fish with separate side dish vegetable and salad dressing options. Amtrak briefly tried similar “pre-plating” as an economy move on the City of New Orleans in the mid-2000s but the experiment was quickly dropped when customers complained about the lack of choice.

Another significant drawback is that on the Cardinal, Meteor, Crescent, and southbound City, the identical menu is offered at both lunch and dinner. Breakfast is essentially unchanged from the Lake Shore-Capitol model: a continental breakfast with one hot egg, ham, and cheese sandwich option.

Depending upon trip length, the same meal may also repeat – southbound dinner and northbound breakfast on the Meteor and Crescent, and eastbound dinner and westbound breakfast on the Cardinal. Connect between any of these trains at Washington or New York, and Midwest-Florida travelers double the repetition. Overnight trains’ cafe cars are to be stocked with some of the fresh sandwich options available on the Midwest, Northeast, and California corridors, but those need to be purchased separately.

At the onboard tasting, Trains confirmed that the new choices were definitely an improvement over the boxed meals. Executive Chef Gottlieb’s observations that “The pasta is al dente, the chicken is tender and the beef is really good and tasty,” were on the mark.
Hopefully, each train will debut with enough of the pasta and meatballs kids meals to satisfy adults onboard, too.
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Executive Chef David Gottlieb
Bob Johnston
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