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| Last updated on November 30, 2020
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This is where Cody learned that when you cut track soldered joints can create a problem. If you are going to remove track and save it cut out any soldered joints because when you remove the track with rail cutters or a Dremel any soldered joint cat send rails flying and the cut is never clear and any ties that are where the cut is will warp and the rails will come out of their spikes. When you cut cut two ties from the joint in each direction that way when you remove the old track you have a clean rail joint when you reattach the track. When Cody cut the tracks going into the feed mill he cut on an angle and the outside rail caved in towards the points since this was flex track and works like a spring Cody had to tare out a whole section of Lake Beulah just to replace one siding. With the Jone’s Island Project all the joints will be flush cut so this mistake does not happen again.
Cody:
Why not use a Dremel motor tool with a cut off wheel to cut the rails? Then use a Dremel tool with a brass or wire wheel to remove the paint from the rails prior to soldering? Thanks.
Greg
for the final step watch the Ballasting episode of Cody’s Workshop as Cody lays the ballast on the completed turnout.
I have a slick trick for painting the track, I use automatic transmission fluid for cars on a foam brush to paint it on the rail head before painting the rails. it becomes a mask keeping the paint from sticking to the head of the rail and also using a small paint brush to place it where the point and stock rail meet at turnouts. this has worked with any paint I buy and after a bit there is no smell from the ATF, I also use now the ATF to keep my n scale locomotives running as it conducts electricity very well and keeps my locomotives running on some dusty track. about a drop every 2 to 3 foot of rail will keep a locomotive running even if the rail head is black.
same rule applies for ballasting don't place glue or ballast near the control rods it will gum it up and you have to replace it if that happens. you only have one switch so make it count.
Yes re-wetting the ballast should make it easier to remove the old turnout. Also spreading a thin film of light oil on the railhead before painting makes it easier to remove the paint.
thanks for the video Cody I will remember this if I need to replace a switch
Absolutely great video, a wonderful step by step instruction video. Wish you had more of these for the MR subscribers.
How did you remove the ties from the track that was left in place. This was not shown in the video. In one scene, the rail was cut right at the tie with the Xuron tool, then in the next scene it looks like two ties were removed.
Cody, I am wanting to use Peco code 83 turnouts with Atlas code 83 flex track. I noticed in the video the joiners easily slipped on the flex track and the turnout. I purchased an "experimental" Peco turnout and have found that the Peco joiners will not slip on the Atlas flex track do to differences in width of the rail profile. How did you overcome this mismatch?
Wouldn't it have been easier to paint the rail and points prior to installation? That way you use the spray booth, don't need masking, just the micro brush, or a rail-paint pen, to touch up. It may just be me, but I am lazy by nature and anything to save effort works for me.
I noticed the addition of a bandage on your thumb in the second half of the video. It's good to know that I'm not the only one that gets injured while working on the layout.
Best job I have seen you do Cody. Very nice!
Great, as always. Your use of Testors Poly Scale paint raises the question – Kristin Schiro, CEO of Testors, recently announced that they were discontinuing the Floquil and Poly Scale lines of paint. What impact do you think this will have on our hobby?
Informative lesson in replacing the old turnouts.
Noticed on the backdrop there is a shadow of the trees in the foreground. Might try to paint a matching tree where the shadow is so the shadow doesn't show as much. Dark tree will not show shadows like a light sky.
Good and helpful information – Thanks.
For a future video – how about some tips on ballasting around turnouts to make them look good, but not screw up reliable operation.
Cody, Cody, Cody. Put your safety goggles on BEFORE you pull the track spikes. I've had them fly across the room when the needle nose pliers don't grab well. Then soften the ballast by wetting it first so it won't fly around and you won't have to chisel it out. I've had success steaming the ballast using an old steam iron. Better to cut existing rail with a cutting wheel in a rotary tool. Use the Zuron cutter to cut the tie connectors under the rails of the new turnout – works quick with less danger of a miscut. I don't use caulk — the ballast and glue will hold just fine. Use the single-edge razor blade to clean off the paint off the top of the rail by scraping lightly. Using the Bright Boy to clean off paint is too much work. Other than that, good video.
Why not wet the ballast first before using the putty knife.
Cody, you are a great teacher! Thank you.
Cody: your instructional videos are awesome! As I wait to get a house and start my layout, your videos and Model Railroader magazine are keeping the dream alive. I'll be 63 this July, so I hope to live long enough to actually build and run a smallish layout…
Cody, good installment!
But why are all your vids so pixelated? I'm running IE9, and they all break up?
Roger Spence
Excellent description of the procedure and I will have some on our club layout to replace shortly so am grateful for the advice. I would not thought of using filler pieces.