The Model Railroader staff has used latex caulk to install cork roadbed and lay flextrack on the last few project model train layouts. Follow associate editor Cody Grivno as he shows you this easy model railroading technique as work continues on the Winter Hill project model train layout.
Building Model Railroader’s Winter Hill quarry branch, part 4
By Angela Cotey | December 19, 2012
| Last updated on November 23, 2020
How to install roadbed and lay track on a model train layout
Cody is right he also says in Step By Step if you use DAP 230 of Liquid Nails DON"T PLACE CALK ON THE POINTS! if you add calk under the points they will weld shut and you have to replace everything.
now that everything has been mapped in Part 3 it is time for Cody to work his magic break out the Liquid Nails,the Woodland Scenic Ballast and the track nails.
Woodland Scenic Foam Tack Glue works great for both cork roadbed and track installation and comes in a handy squeeze bottle with a resealable cap that takes up much less room then the caulking gun.
Hi! Thank you for showing the video.
Would you show how you lay the cork and the flexrails in curves.
Why do you use caulk, which can get expensive, instead of using Elmer's white or yellow glue? I've been using both glues for 30+ years with great results.
I have been using big stretch caulk for a number of years. I like your technique of putting the caulk on the road bed rather than on the base like I had been doing. However, I like to also glue the cork ends and two sections together to prevent a bit of shrinkage in the future from developing gaps in the road bed This gluing might be over-kill as the ballast might accomplish this too. But in any case, it's nice to see a fresh approach.
Is the Dynaflex 230 calk OK if you're laying roadbed on foam insulation board? Hopefully it is compatible with foam board?
If so, I will use this method myself.
I believe Andy's reply answers the questions Roy and Lewis had.
It looks like u laid down some cork sheets before putting down your roadbed cork?? Also it looks like Cody lost his razor.
I have enough experience with this method to answer some of these questions. Adhsive caulk works just as well for curves, but depending on the type of flextrack you may need to bend the curved sections before gluing them in place. If you use a thin layer of caulk, as cody emphasized, it's easy to make changes by slipping a putty knife under the ties to lift the flextrack. I wouldn't solder the rail joints between straight sections, but I do solder the joints of curved sections before bending the track. And while ballast will further secure the track in place, you need the caulk (or something) to hold the track in line until you add the ballast.
Nice work, Cody,
Andy
I've been a modeler for 40+ years but have never used the caulk method for laying track. I just built a new home and am starting a 900 square foot dream railroad. I was very glad to hear I was going to see how to do this new method. However, after Cody says he will lay some "flew track", he puts down a 9" piece of straight that really does NOTHING to show the problems you will encounter when layin miles of flex in long curves or S-curve situations.
What about future changes? Will the caulk/sealant be a problem in removing track and cork roadbed?
IF you were planning to solder the rail joiners, would you need to take care of that prior to using the DAP adhesive to hold the track in place, or is that something you could still deal with after the track is laid and glued in place?
Great series – like it a lot.
However, why would you caulk the track when you are going to ballast the track anyway (presumably with "wet" glue which will hold the track pieces in place)? Aren't you doubling up on work – moreso for large layouts with lots of track to lay?
Very informative and easy to use. always good to see new ways to lay certain pieces of track in a specific location. keep it up
David Pop used white glue as well on the virginian when laying
cork. I have used it on so many other things I'm going to try it
on cork & track. Good job guys, keep it up and thanks.
Interesting and informative. Great job Cody, very helpful to those that are just getting into the wonderful world of model railroading. Keep up the great work and videos! Thanks
Haven't tried gluing down track yet, but it looks like a pretty good method. Although I would probably use it only on straight and curved track. I believe installing turnouts and getting them aligned correctly would be better using the nail down method !
One of the tricks we have used on our Free-Mo modules to assist in removing the track is to 1st apply a light coat of water to the caulk. This seems to make it more plyable and much easier to remove with a thin flat knife or blade.
I agree, the caulk or thinned elmers glue can be used very well, ive always used the old nail & hammer method, this has to be much easier. thanks guys very educational
I, for one, would like to see how Cody's techniques would apply to laying cork roadbed and flex track on curves.
I liked the demo on actually using adhesive for the road bed and track. One suggestion that I have learned the hard way is to use a small round bubble level to be sure the track and turnout are level and not slopped which leads to derailments.
I used kitchen and bath latex caulk in the past with good results as I use pink foam board and foam roadbed. track and roadbed can be removed fairly easy if you want to make changes prior to the scenery phase.
excellent!
Does the brand of adhesive make any difference? I'm using DAP, but the tube is red/white, not the exact type being used in the video.
Dear Steve and Cody,
It is great to hear the information I saw being filmed a year ago on the web feed. Looking forward to the next installment.
Thanks,
David Taylor