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To get the series underway, host David Popp enlists the help of Trains.com editor Jenny Freeland. The two discuss the versatility of this wood framework, before teaming up to build a segment for the N scale layout.
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At least one of those pencils was extremely blunt. An occasional trip to the pencil sharpener would make for more accurately placed lines.
Are you using 1x dimensional pine? ANd what thickness of plywood?
David, Who makes the Glue your using in the segment?
Titebond III would work well.
At the center of the fan, I would have added a gusset plate, just to be sure rthat the joint is solid.
As many have noted above, it was good to see Jenny in construction mode again. I don’t use L-girder construction, but I can see some of its advantages especially on curved sections. Thanks for your teamwork.
Clear, insightful and amusing presentation that clearly explains how a pile of wood can be fit together to make a train layout. Looking forward to the next episode!
You gave some lumber dimensions but not all. 3×1, 2×1 top? spacing between the L’s, plywood thickness?
Glad to have Jenny in front of the camera again. Great to see this new N scale project.
Great video. Two suggestions:
1. Buy Jenny some safety glasses.
2. While structurally correct to have the axis of the girders pass throughthe same point, the design and installation of radial girders could have been simplified by offsetting the girders slightly and making one 45° cut instead of the bevel cut.
1. Why is the “L” on the inside of the frame?
2. Why 2″ deck screws? 1-5/8″ drywall screws have plenty of grab.
3. Eric above is right about the combination drill/countersink. Couldn’t find it the drawers?
4. Nice to see Ms. Jenny in front of the camera again. Good thinking, David.
5. Good lesson on building benchwork. Thanks.
I love the addition of chapter markers in the video player!
Would be great to publish a .pdf of the layout design.
David love the videos. Just a quick question why do you not use a combo countersink and drill bit? They come in many different sizes and it seems it would speed up the work of not having to change bits 3 times.
Thank You for all the great videos
Eric
With softer woods like pine, you could just drill the smaller pilot hole. The drill/driver has plenty of power to countersink the screw head without using a countersink bit.
Many of those deck screws also have ridges on the underside of the head to cut their own countersink, Grip Rite for example.
I enjoyed the interplay between Dave, the expert, and Jenny, the still learning model railroader. Jenny asked the questions I would expect a model railroader learning about an area she is not an expert in. And Dave explaining techniques to Jenny (and the viewer) she may not know about. It was great seeing both of them again.