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Model Railroader associate editor Cody Grivno shows how to weather a freight car with the drybrushing technique.
How to weather with drybrushing
By Angela Cotey | October 20, 2013
| Last updated on December 7, 2020
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Thanks for the instruction, Cody. Got a question, if you're unhappy with the result do you just paint over and then try again? I plan on weathering a deck girder bridge and will be doing it for the first time.
Looks easy Cody! I've been wanting to try this method for a long time. Guess it's time to bite the bullet!!
Another really good medium to use when drybrushing are MIG pigments. You can get all kinds of weathering colours and they will adhere to the carbody very well. Even ones with a slight gloss. Check out the military section of most hobby stores and you should find them.
nice. i haven't had much success with drybrushing but i think I'll try again now!
Thank You 🙂
I really wanted to see how his finished product looked.
Thanks, Cody. Until now I always lacked the confidence to do this. Keep up the good work.
This is how every single freight car on my layout is weathered
Keep the good tips comoning.
I have used this method for years, and I also use some pewter gray chalk as the last step over the dry brushed rust colors on a silver roof, it blends it all in and really gives the roof an aged look. Good stuff Cody!
I really like this way of doing cars. Thanks for sharing. Your tips have helped me a lot. Question, on the Mr&T how did you do your decals?
Thank you.
I like the way this techniques gives you better control over the amount of paint you can use thus leaving a more realistic appearance.
Really useful stuff here. Thanks for the videos. Seeing it makes it easier to do…well!
I've been looking for some simiple wheathering techniques to use on cars. Thanks!
I've always used artists burnt umber & umber oil paint. I think this will work too.
Another method that I've used successfully is a wash of watercolors. The dry brushing hits mostly high spots, unless you use a microbrush, but to get to the lower or deeper spots a wash of watercolors works great. A paper towel can blot off extra or upper surfaces, where the drybrush works better. Mix it up, have some fun.
I have worked with drybrushing for many years on plaster crafts. I have never done it on plastic. However, the beauty of this method is that you really can't make a mistake. You won't be disappointed when you try it. It is as real as it gets!
Great idea for fast weathering. I will use it on my models….Tks for the great tip.
CArman
As a useful tip, I use a sheet of wax paper as a workable surface underneath my painting projects, and wipe the excess paint onto it, so that it minimizes paint waste (excess paint is still usable), and cleanup is a snap!
As a useful tip, I use a sheet of wax paper as a workable surface underneath my model painting projects; it allows for me to reuse the excess paint wiped off the brush, and it makes cleanup a snap!
An excellent tip to say the least. Air brushing does not give the weathered model the real look. Dry brushing is so much easier with a lot less effort and a lot less money.
An excellent tip to say the least. Air brushing just does not give the weathered model the real look. Dry brushing is so much easier with a lot less effort and a lot less money.
Keep them coming !!!! they are very helpful!
Hey Cody, these short tips are nice but they don't match the enjoyment we, your fans, get from a full sized version of Cody's Office. Sure hope to see more soon!!
Great video. It's one of my favorite techniques.
I'm glad that cody showed how to drybrush a roof; so much has been said about how to weather car sides with realistic patterns. one realistic pattern of rust that i've seen on flat-roofed cars, such as auto parts cars, is x's (cross hatching)on the flat areas between the ribs (i guess it comes from the cars being shuffled in the rain?)