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Track tricks: Superelevate curves in 4 easy steps

Track tricks: Superelevate curves in 4 easy steps

By Angela Cotey | March 29, 2019

| Last updated on November 20, 2020


Simple shims add a realistic tilt to flextrack

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A locomotive leaning into a superelevated curve is a dramatic scene on a prototype and model railroad.
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Follow the simple method above for making superelevated curves on your model train layout using layers of cardstock shims

I think the most exciting railroad photos are of a locomotive at speed leaning into a curve. This “lean” results from a prototype practice called superelevation, and I’ve developed an easy way to achieve the effect on a model railroad.

Superelevation adds realism

As a locomotive enters a curve, its forward motion keeps pulling it in a straight line, causing it to resist making the turn. The higher the speed, the more likely the locomotive will derail.

Prototype railroads counteract this effect by superelevating curved track. On superelevated curves, the roadbed is raised so the outer rail is 4 to 6 inches higher than the inner rail. This shifts the weight of the train towards the inside of the curve and diminishes the effect.

Many modelers think adding superelevation to model railroad curves is difficult and involves complex transitions

between straight and curved track sections. However, I’ve installed superelevated curves on three layouts using an easy 4-step technique. You can follow my method in the above right photo.

Step 1: Cut cardstock

First, I purchase two sheets of cardstock from an office or art supply store. I buy a thin (.030″) sheet of Oak Tag brand paper for this material. It’s often sold in various colors as construction paper for children’s projects. I also buy a sheet of .075″ thick poster board.

Usually, both products are available in 18″ x 24″ sheets. I cut each sheet into rectangular shims measuring 1⁄4″ x 1⁄2″.

Step 2: Install shims

I use a 3-point track gauge to draw guidelines on the roadbed. First I draw the track centerline. Then I mark the location of the rail along the outside of the curve and the end of the track ties along the inside of the curve. Track gauges are available in multiple scales; I use a Kadee HO scale track gauge.

After double-checking the guidelines, I glue down the cardstock shims in three sections, following the outside line of the curve. I use thin shims at each end of the curve and thick shims in the middle. Each of these sections is 12 to 18 inches long depending on the length of the curve.

I add a second layer of thin shims, starting a third of the way in from each end. This step helps smooth out the transition to and from the highest elevation.

Step 3: Spike down flextrack

Following the guidelines I’ve drawn, I bend my flextrack. I make sure the outside rail is above the shims and line up the tie ends on the inside of the curve.

I spike down both ends of every fifth tie. The spikes along the outside of the curve go through the shims. I drill no. 65 holes through the ties to make spiking easier.

Step 4: Cover shims with ballast

The final step is to ballast the track, which will conceal the shims. The color and type of ballast used depends on the era and railroad modeled. Since I model a branch line in 1948, I use gray ballast over a layer of black cinder ballast.

That’s it! By using these four simple steps, I’ve made my model railroad curves look more realistic.

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