Host David Popp promises to show you the easiest way you’ll ever see to install a Tortoise by Circuitron Switch Motor! Plus, you’ll also see simple techniques for attaching feeder wires, soldering rail joints, and even painting the track for a more realistic appearance. Let’s get started!
Curious about alternative installation solutions? Be sure to explore an above-board mounting option, as presented In The Workshop, an exclusive Trains.com Video series!
Hi David; I have 21 turnouts on my 12′ x 8′ HO layout and all are controlled by Tortoise switch machines. When I bought my first machines, the seller showed “Card edge connectors” for the machines. I went with them and am so clad I did! They are much easier to solder to and much easier to re-solder as well.
Since the Tortoise has 8 terminals and CAT-5 cable has 8 wires, I use the CAT-5 to power indicator LEDs on my control panel as well as to ‘polarize’ the frog.
Much easier to work on under the layout.
Thanks for your insights!
David, Did you switch to the Tortoise switch motors to demonstrate how to hook them up; or, did you change your mind about throwing turnouts by hand??
Also, are you going to use the frog powering capabilities of your Tortoise switch machines?
Thanks for the note, Mark. You should see more of that in a coming episode, but yes, essentially, I’m using both Blu-Points paired with Tortoises on this part of the layout, simply for the pull-knob control. It is not what I’d recommend doing, as I’m essentially using two switch machines to do the job of one, but I just couldn’t get past the idea that the turnouts on the new section would operate with toggle switches and the old section with pull knobs. If I had not already owned the Tortoises, I’d have worked out a way to install the Blu-Points and called it a day. – D. Popp
This has been a really informative series so far, and it’s interesting to see a new section join into a completed layout.
A question about cable staples: I have a Dewalt multipurpose stapler that can take cable staples. The problem is that it drives them in too far, so the wire gets crushed. I’ve tried a few different lengths of staple, but it happens every time. Am I making an obvious mistake here? Thanks for all of the informative videos.
Sorry, Mark, I have no experience with the Dewalt stapler you mentioned. If it is a powered stapler, like my nail gun, there may be a dial on it to adjust the hammer depth so that it doesn’t drive the staple as deeply as it is doing. If it is a manual stapler, there won’t be a depth control option available. My cable stapler was just an inexpensive model sold by The Home Depot, and it has lasted me for years. It usually does not damage the wire, although sometimes it has trouble with harder types of wood. Best wishes on the project. – D. Popp