ABCs of model railroading

Getting started in model railroading

Advice for a painless start in the hobby
By Marty McGuirk
Published: Thursday, August 01, 2002
There are all kinds of ways to get started in model railroading, but perhaps the most common is with a train set. Before we look at train sets, let's review the different scales.

Modeling scales
Model railroading scales are described by letters such as N, HO, S, and O. This alphabet soup may seem confusing at first, but the letters are simply shorthand to describe the ratio of the model's size to its prototype, which is what model railroaders call the real thing a model is based on.

By far the most popular is HO (pronounced aitch-oh). HO scale models are 1:87 proportioned, meaning one foot on the model represents 87 actual feet. An HO scale 40-foot boxcar is about six actual inches long.

The second most popular modeling scale is N scale. With a ratio of 1:160, it's a little more than half the size of HO scale. An N scale 40-foot boxcar measures just over three actual inches long.

Many model railroaders use the terms "scale" and "gauge" interchangeably, but they really mean different things. Scale, as we already learned, is the ratio of the model to the prototype. Gauge is the distance between the rails. Standard gauge on North American railroads is 4'-8½", but many railroads, especially in the 1800s, were built to narrower gauges. Three feet between the rails was the most common narrow gauge in the United States. To indicate narrow gauge models we use a small "n" and the gauge of the track prefaced by the scale. For example, an HOn3 layout is one where the buildings, figures, and trains are HO scale, but the rails are spaced three (scale) feet apart.

Although narrow gauge is appealing, most modelers start off modeling standard gauge railroading, so that's what we'll concentrate on here.

Choosing a scale
Which scale is best for you? That's a personal question that only you can answer. Maybe you were given some old trains or have received a train set as a gift. In that case, you'll likely want to stick with that scale, at least for now. (Many modelers change scales at some point as their interests develop.)

If you're starting from scratch, visit a hobby shop that specializes in trains and ask the clerk to show you trains in each of the scales.

Look around a typical hobby shop and you'll quickly notice HO scale offers the widest variety of locomotives, cars, and accessories, often at the best prices. The minimum radius for an HO scale curve is 18", meaning a complete loop of track can fit on a standard 4 x 8-foot sheet of plywood. A wide variety of N scale equipment is also available, although the prices will, as a rule, be slightly higher than for a comparable HO model.

The two larger popular indoor scales, S and O, aren't available in every hobby shop, but you may want to consider them. For many years the selection in these scales was marginal, but that is changing, as S and O scales have seen an influx of new locomotives, cars, and structures in recent years.

Each scale offers its own unique advantages. If you want the scenery to dominate the trains, or if you have only very limited space, look closely at N scale. If product availability is the most important factor, you'll likely be happiest with HO. And if you want the trains to really be the stars of the show, you'll likely find larger scales like S and O are the best choice.

Finally, practical factors will enter into your scale choice. Other matters to consider include how much space you have, just how much you like to build models, and how comfortable the size is for you. For now pick a scale that feels right, with the idea that you can revisit your decision in a few years after you have some practical experience.

"Should I start with a train set?"
Although a train set is the most traditional way to get started in model railroading, it's not the only one, nor necessarily the best.

The most important thing to look for in a train set is reliability. I recommend you pass on the low-priced train sets like those found in discount chains and toy stores. These typically have poor-running locomotives, inadequate power packs, and brass track. Some sets make up for the deficiencies in the trains with lots of extras - buildings, trees, telephone poles, and the like - but all these are available separately.

Your first concern should be with locomotive quality. You want the best one you can afford, even if it means a set with fewer cars or no frills. It should come as no surprise that in general the more expensive the set, the better the quality of the locomotive that comes with it.

You don't need to start with a train set. In many cases it's just as easy to ask the hobby shop staff to recommend a locomotive and several cars, along with a decent power pack. If cost is a concern, put the money into a good locomotive and power pack and purchase fewer cars and accessories.

Just a few years ago track was the main bugaboo with any N or HO scale train set. The sections would easily come apart, dirt and carpet fuzz would get into the locomotive mechanism, and electrical conductivity between individual track pieces was sporadic at best.

That's all changed. Newer sectional track from Atlas, Bachmann, Kato, and Life-Like includes track sections mounted on plastic or vinyl roadbed which locks the sections firmly together, ensuring mechanical and electrical contact. I'd recommend using this type of track until you're ready for a permanent layout. Also, use track that has nickel silver rails. Both brass and nickel silver corrode and oxidize, but the oxidization on nickel silver is more conductive than that on brass, so the trains run better. And purchase several turnouts and more straight and curved sections. These allow you to vary the train's route, which will hold your interest longer than if it just chases its tail.

Getting rolling!
So break open that train set box, or round up those cars, locomotive, and track and set it up - under the Christmas tree if you want. Congratulations, you're a model railroader!