I'm talking GLEAM!: ULTRA_SHINY and Smooth rails can now be had with my 'WHAT box?" approach to this conductivity problem. An HO modeller since 1970, I know the problem WELL!
THIS IS A ONE-TIME PROCESS. DO ALL TRACK!!
1] On an appropiate-sized block, use 400 wet/dry paper to remove the extrusion milling left on the railheads. The block must span both rails.
2] Now use 600 or finer, repeat process.
3] Using an appropiate-sized STAINLESS-STEEL piece, apply moderate pressure and BURNI***he rails! The more you slide back and forth, the smoother and shinier the rails become! [ the GLEAM part ]. This is because you have removed the ridges, bumps, and pits. Burnishing helps seal pores with metal, eliminating traps for dirt and tarnish; almost like a MIRROR!
4] [For Bob H.] Use BLUE MAGIC or equivalent metal poli***o deep-clean the remaining contaminates.
5] Last, buff the rails to your eye's content!
The shine is 5x more lusterous than just polish alone. The wax left behind is minimal, is not insulating, and virtually eliminates rail cleaning.
This is a process HOT OFF THE PRESSES! [Of my brain] I've only been at it 6 weeks with amazing results! {I just added the wax step today.} prior to that, though, the NS HO rails I'm guinea-pigging (300') sans wax STILL gleams today, with slight tarnishing, so I'm gonna wax 'em next!
I will also try some classic brass rail to see how that stands up.

AND REMEMBER; NO MORE ABRASIVES...EVER!!!!!!
Or you'll just ruin your mirror finish, and will have to gleam and wax AGAIN!
Dry-wipe with paper towel or cotton. You can always polish anytime; wipe away excess.

I've had DCC and DC locos/lash-ups creep at a scale 3-5MPH around the staging level loop 100' with NO STALL or FAULTER. gotta love it[:D]

My $.02 is that Friction is where we get traction from. A flawless piece of metal that is slick can cause the loss of friction. The theroy is sound about the rails not taking dirt but if you make it to perfect you may lose the friction required for traction.
Where did you get the Stainless? 304L SS (low carbon content) and 316L (purer with a low carbon content ) would be the source of choice.
YOu could get the same results using a quarter since the nickel silver content will also work.
There is a finner grade on sandpaper 2000 grit that will do all of the above as far as the polish. Wax of choice IMHO would be Flitz.
Thank you for the brain teaser that is what makes this forum fun.
Take Care
George P.

Well, last week (Dec 30) I had a modeler and his nephew stop by as he wanted to see DCC Digitrax in action, as he is planning on converting soon.

Now I have not run the layout since Thanksgiving as I have been busy adding scenery and rebuilding several sidings on the layout. The layout was a mess and I had to move stuff off the layout just to run some trains!

When he arrived I just went down and turned on the layout. I have 3 blocks on the layout and one of them I had a short on so I just shut it off. (I know that there must have been a tool laying on the tracks somewhere) any way I got out a UT4R keypad and let nephew (6 years old) acquire the first unit (a sound engine) The nephew took off with the engine and a train . Now remember this layout had not been run for over a month and construction taking place but the sound engine ran perfect.

Says a little about metal polished track doesn’t it!

We also fired up 2 other Atlas engines as Frank wanted to try his hand at operating a helper and the train using the DT400 R keypad.

Now I was a little apprehensive about this as the pusher engine was coupled directly to the train (which was a really short one – 6 cars) so string lining was a possibility with such a short train (had a bunch of Walthers tankcars in it). Needless to say if the track had caused either one of the engines to stall even for a moment the train would have hit the floor. Frank (also being totally new to the Digitrax system and then trying to run 2 engines independently – not MUed) ran the train out of Phillipston yard up the hill to Lawsonham and over to St Charles – for a total of 100 feet. Then to top it all off he decided to back the train back down to the yard while it was still coupled together. Now I was really getting nervous but knowing that the engines would not miss a beat let him do it.

Would YOU let a complete novice do that with your equipment after having let the layout sit for over a month and the dust from construction?

And remember now that the track has not been cleaned since I used the metal polish back in July of 2003. Now tell me about how your track cleaners will do THAT!

BOB H – Clarion, PA

claycts

I first used Blue Magic (liquid)(Wal-Mart) and others at the Club tried Mothers Mag Wheel Polish (paste)(Wal-Mart - Auto Parts stores). It really does not matter what brand just as long as it is a metal polish.

I would NOT recommend Brasso as it seems to leave an oily finish and this is what we do NOT want. The rails are to be dry. Also some of the Chrome cleaners seem to leave an oil fini***oo.

BOB H - Clarion, PA

Burnishing the rails with the Stainless-Steel washer

BOB H - Clarion, PA

QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts My $.02 is that Friction is where we get traction from. A flawless piece of metal that is slick can cause the loss of friction. The theroy is sound about the rails not taking dirt but if you make it to perfect you may lose the friction required for traction. Where did you get the Stainless? 304L SS (low carbon content) and 316L (purer with a low carbon content ) would be the source of choice. YOu could get the same results using a quarter since the nickel silver content will also work. There is a finner grade on sandpaper 2000 grit that will do all of the above as far as the polish. Wax of choice IMHO would be Flitz. Thank you for the brain teaser that is what makes this forum fun. Take Care George P.

I tried the guarter-seems to do as you theorize!
Then I used the SS washer to PRESS IN the NS left by the quarter.
I did some classic brass HO rail ---- [wow][wow]
The finish was SILVERY! [:0]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tommann Hi; Has anyone tried this with N Scale Atlas code 55? Thanks, Tom

not yet, i'd like to soon

QUOTE: Originally posted by semafore QUOTE: Originally posted by 1shado1 Glean??? Jeff GLEAN = THE AMAZIN' SHINE WHEN YOU'RE DONE !![:D][:D][8D]

GleaM, maybe. But gleaN? Ok, make stuff up if you like...[:D]

Gleam it is, as an amateur proof-reader and pedant. But then I don't have a problem with "coined" words either, they have a place. I do, however, suffer from dirty track, and I find Goo-Gone leaves a slippery residue up 2.5% grades, until it dries on track and wheels, creating the dreaded insulating black grunge (I don't run often, construction). Maybe I use too much. 1200 grit does give a nice shine, I think I might pursue this avenue a little further, I've always been concerned about the visible scratches in my NS C70 from a Bright-boy.

QUOTE: Originally posted by cmrproducts claycts I first used Blue Magic (liquid)(Wal-Mart) and others at the Club tried Mothers Mag Wheel Polish (paste)(Wal-Mart - Auto Parts stores). It really does not matter what brand just as long as it is a metal polish. I would NOT recommend Brasso as it seems to leave an oily finish and this is what we do NOT want. The rails are to be dry. Also some of the Chrome cleaners seem to leave an oil fini***oo. BOB H - Clarion, PA

Thanks Bob, I have some NEVER DULL and FLITZ that I am going to play with. The NEVER DULL may be an OILER but the FLITZ should be fine, I HOPE