I'm having a heck of a time applying decals to my cars. I've tried several reccomendations I found in MR. But they still look sloppy, or won't adhere to the car kit I built. So I'm looking for suggestions on how to apply them. And if they don't stick, how to reapply them.
Thanks in advance,

Spencer

It's been a long time since I've done water decals. I think most have some kind of sticky substance on them, which comes off if you over soak them, so you want to make sure that you don't do that. Don's advice is all right on, but he left out the decal setting solution. Products like Micro Sol or Solv A Set help disolve the film once you have it in position.

This step makes the decals conform to the contours of the surface. Once you apply one of these products you can't touch the decal again until it is completely dry, or it will smear. If you still have any air bubbles under the decals, poke them with a sharp Xacto or pin and put on a drop of the setting solution.

Now your decals should look like they are part of the paint, with very little ridge along the edges. Now a shot of dulling spray, and people will think you painted the lettering, even if they look close.[swg]

Applying decals is just like any other skill. It takes a bit of time, care, experience, practice and patience. And just like any other skill, if you don't practice, accept a few mistakes, and the activity scares the bejeebers out of you, you won't get anywhere with them.

I apply decals all the time, and am in fact going to be decalling several pieces of rolling stock this weekend. This is what works for me:

1) apply a gloss fini***o the model. I generally use Polly Scale paints, so I use a clear gloss coating after the paint is COMPLETELY dry (generally, a week to be safe). I've used all sorts of stuff for this, but I like Testors Glosscoat and Krylon gloss coat the best. Add a light, even coat, and let dry for at least 2 days in a dust-free environment (some sort of plastic box with a lid is best)

2) gather up your tools. I use a metal straightedge, an Xacto knife and plenty of #11 blades, water, decal setting solution (more on that later), a good #0 paintbrush or two, a glass cutting board, reverse-action tweezers (the kind that OPEN when you squeeze them)and lots of paper napkins.

3) Add the decals. This is one of the easier steps, but it requires a few tricks. I use room temperature distilled water to soak decals in (tapwater might discolor the decals). Cut out the decal with a sharp knife (Xacto #11 blade), keeping as close to the lettering as possible. Use a straightedge if necessary, and replace the blade if it tears through the decal paper instead of cutting cleanly (you don't want jagged edges).

Plop the decal in the water (I use a small glass dish), and let it sit in the water for one minute, or until the decal uncurls, or until the decal floats away from the backing paper. You DO NOT want the decal glue to remain on the decal! (it'll leave a white, hazy film under the decal which will NOT go away)

Once the decal is floating around, carefully float the decal back onto the backing paper (with the brush), and grab the paper with the tweezers. Blot off most of the water from the decal onto a paper towel. Using the brush, add a SMALL amount of water onto the model, where you want the decal. Now, position the decal (on the paper) over the general area where you want it. Holding one edge of the decal with the brush, slide the paper out from under the decal. Use the brush (and MAYBE the tip of the tweezers, if you've got the hang of all this and you have a delicate touch) to move the decal to it's exact position. Blot the edges of the decal with the corner of a paper towel, until almost all of the water has wicked away. Smooth out the decal with the brush, and let it dry.

4) Add the FIRST layer of decal setting solution. I use Micro Set for this. Using a fairly broad brush (#0 or #1 works, with soft bristles), quickly add a small amount of solution to the entire decal, and leave. Let dry for 1-3 hours.

5) Slice any air bubbles with a sharp blade, and apply the SECOND layer of decal setting solution. I generally use a stronger solution for the second coat, like Champ's. Let dry 1-3 hours.

6) Check the decals for any remaining air bubbles or ridges, and repeat step 5 until they're gone. Once you're done, let the decals fully dry overnight.

7) add a coat of Dullcoat to the model. I've successfully used Testors Dullcoat and at least two varieties of Krylon flat sprays.

That's it. It might sound like you need three hands at times, but you really don't. Only work on one side of a car at a time, and start with fairly thick (and forgiving) decals like Champ's until you get the hang of it. I generally assembly-line decalling when I can. I can bang out the sides of 10 twin hoppers in a couple of hours.

I agree about the distilled water - I boil the kettle, let it cool, then use some of the boiled water - have had no problems with "watermarks" ever since, and it's cheaper than buying distilled water.

A few simples steps:

- Soak the decals until they float on top of the water.
- Give whatever your decaling a coat of clear gloss coat
- Let dry
- Using Micro SET put some down in the area where decal is going
- Put decal on top of wet area of Micro SET
- Let dry
- Once dry "gently" put Micro SOL on the decal (makes it conform to the surface)
- Let dry
- Once that is dry you may want to hit it again with the SOL
- Let dry
- Once your done applying all the decals, give item a good coating of clear Dull Coat
- Let dry
- Add weathering if you want
- Spray with Dull Coat again.
- Enjoy

Just a note to say THANKS to all that answered. I got a lot of good ideas. I really appreciate the help!!

Spencer

I didn't know that about the De humidifier water, I'll have to try that some time. Thanks for the tip.

Noah

Gonna go look for some deft! Hopefully I can get the same results as wmlurgan. If not, I'll keep looking. That's what is soooooo coooool about this hobby. Many possible solutions to any given problem. Find the one that works for you and have at it!!